Roses are definitely considered to be the queen amongst flowers in the garden and are indispensable garden subjects, regardless of whether a garden is classic or modern, large or small. They are easy to grow and come in a diversity of shapes, colours and fragrances to excite the senses. A rambling rose trained up a wall or pergola, standard roses along a garden path, or rose bushes in a traditional rose bed are all stunningly beautiful. Roses will also thrive in pots and planters on the patio or decking – and, of course, delightfully scented tea roses are excellent for cutting and will surely be remarked upon. Bakker provides high-quality roses with a five-year guarantee. Choose your new roses below, right now!
Need help with how to plant? Check out our little instruction video!
The structure of a rose bush
Rose bushes are deciduous shrubs with composite leaves. The branches have thorns and the flowers grow individually or in clusters. The fruit is the rose-hip that contains countless seeds. Long ago, various wild roses were crossed creating hybrids, called high bred roses. These hybrids are often grafted onto a ‘wild’ rose (e.g. Rosa canina) as the original variety has more vitality. Grafting is a method used to multiply plants whereby the wood to be grafted is attached to a completely different ‘rootstock’ (so, another rose). In grafting, a bud is snipped off the high bred rose bush and attached to the wild rose. The bud is attached via a T shaped cut in the stem and they eventually grow together, causing a thickness of the stem at that point just above the root system. All the wild rose parts are then cut back directly above the graft in order to have all vitality collected from the roots going directly to the hybrid part of the (new) rose. In a standard bush, the grafting point is right at the top of the stem. Sometimes the wild rootstock produces shoots. The leaves are usually a lighter green with more ‘fingers’ than the high bred rose. If you leave these on the bush, the wild rose will take over. This goes for standard roses too where these suckers can appear on the stem. It’s best not to prune a wild shoot but to actually pull it off. You then have a better chance that the shoot will not just come back again.
Caring for roses
Roses like the sun and fertile, lime-rich, permeable soil. To flower abundantly, you need a lot of plant food (and preferably also some lime pellets). Scatter granulated cow manure around the base of your rose bush in the winter. In early spring apply a mulch of mixed, well-rotted manure and then feed with a special rose fertiliser in July. Regular dead heading back to the first five fingered leaf will encourage new growth. Most roses are hardy but it is still necessary to protect them from frost. We advise earthing up around the base of the plant for the winter – just don’t forget to spread it all out again in the spring. With standard roses, you’d do best to protect the grafting point (at the top of the stem) with a packing of straw or bubble wrap over the winter.
Rose plants you receive from Bakker will already have been pruned so will not require further pruning until 12-18 months later. They will then need to be pruned every spring. It’s very simple: use pruning shears to cut back all branches in March, to 3-5 ‘eyes’ (buds) and leave around 5 of the thickest branches on the bush. Standard bushes are pruned in just this way too. Pull off any suckers that have grown up from the roots or from the stem.